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Monday 30 March 2015

Ginza Lion Singapore : First Beer Hall in Japan since 1899

It feels as if I was in the 1930s beer hall in Bavaria.
Spacious, boisterous atmosphere. Great Booze. Good Food. 
Kampai!~

I imagined myself strolling into this beer hall after a tiring or stressful day at work and sitting down alone in front of the beer counter. I have with me a glass of red wine and a plate of the signature roasted black angus beef ($20). Mmm...this is life.

A simple meal in solidarity but this is what I would like to do sometimes. The medium-done beef radiated in reddish pink glow, incredibly soft but not losing its meat texture. I took the second serving, dabbed it into the shoyu sauce, bits of freshly grated wasabi and it is another realm of enjoyment. 
Ginza Lion may be named after the most expensive district in Japan but the food and drinks follows anything but the rigid formalities of fine dining. Owned by the Sapporo Lion Group, it is first and foremost, a beer hall where diners can chill out in a cosy setting with the refreshing Sapporo beer and moreish bites. In fact, Japan's first beer hall (or probably world's first as the word "beer hall" is a word coined by the Japanese) is opened by Sapporo Lion in 1899 in Ginza, Tokyo. 

Because of its flavors, beer matches a wider variety of food than sake, from chicken to pork to fish. Another excellent option is the Grilled Chicken with Thyme ($18), a glistening slab with burnished marks that made this so aromatic. 

Carried aloft on a wooden plank, the chicken is guarded by charred Rosemary potatoes, the garlicky mushrooms and corn that amped up the smoky flavors. The Beer Batter Fish and Chips ($15 for lunch) has a flawlessly crisp batter but those who are used to a firmer meat like Snapper, might find the Dory too slippery.  
All these mains, including the beef, are available during lunch at an affordable price than dinner. If you are thinking of something light, order the chicken wings (4/8pcs for $10/$18), the pickled vegetables ($5) or the tai ponzu ($12). Unlike those chicken wings with a distinct crunchy amour, this is still crisp but has that extra umami edge as they have marinated in shoyu for at least a day.
The Asazuke ($5), a duo of pickled cucumber and radish, are sour and significantly less salty than the common pickles we have with rice. No wonder they could stand alone on their own and match so well with the Sapporo beer ($12~). I also loved how the raw sea bream (tai fish) is presented--crowned with sliced onions, fried garlic and drizzled in bright lemon and shoyu sauce.

(from top left clockwise) Crème Brule, Prawn and Mushroom Ajillo, Tiramisu, Gobo Karaage

While I am partial towards by favourite burdock root, the deep fried version-Gobo Karaage ($8) needs to exercise restraints on the seasoning even if they were to be beer food. The Prawn and Mushroom Ajillo ($12) arrived sizzling hot but I guessed some of its charm dissipated as the dish gradually cooled down. Perhaps a little more garlic would bolster the piquancy and invite some heady spice. 
Sweets is not their forte here and options are limited to Tiramisu ($8), Creme Brulee ($8) and ice cream. But it does not really matter as the savory options would have satisfied any demanding palates with a good mug of beer. As we continued to explore the regular menu, I was captivated by the humble plate of Pancetta Carbonara ($16), a solid rendition of the authentic egg-based pasta without resorting to cream.
So were the Cumberland (made using an in-house recipe) and Arabiki (Japanese herbed) sausages ($16) that were something different from the norm. Served with moist mash potatoes and tangy sauerkraut, the sausages are tender, juicy and pulled off so well with the mustard dip. 

I think this alone can justify another mug of beer.
Cheers! and Kampai to one and all.
Ginza Lion
Suntec City Outlet
3 Temasek Blvd #01-649/650 Suntec City(Tower4)
Daily 11am-11.30pm (Lunch 12pm-2pm)
Tel: 6836-6053
Rodyk Street Outlet
8 Rodyk St #01-01/02
Weekdays 5pm-12am
Sat 12pm-12am
Sun/PH 12pm-11pm
Note that lunch is only available at the Rodyk outlet during weekends
Tel: 6634-9113
 Party Menu is available for minimum 2/4 persons. Please call for reservations

Saturday 28 March 2015

Kyo-Goku Kaneyo 京極かねよ : Old old unagi eel shop in Kyoto

Perhaps being steeped in tradition, the folks here quite liberal with the rules so they allow people to smoke.

Not sure if it sounds like a good deal to you but this more than a century old unagi-ya permits indoor smoking. This implies that a meal here might be ruined when a bunch of salarymen popped in and start to smoke before, during and after meal. 
Signature Kinshidon (Omelette over eel rice)

Opened since Taisho period, this Unagi-Ya is said to be one of the most famous or perhaps respected shop in Kyoto. Since day 1 of the operation, they have been consistently grilling the eel over long charcoal and this process can still be observed through the kitchen window at level one. But I have reservations whether the unagi the food tasted better with longer history as the homemade tare (sauce) of the unagi here was slightly too diluted and the portions of the eel were meagre. This is relatively compared to Nodaiwa in Tokyo. 
The most famous item here is the Kinshidon (¥2100), a standard unagi rice bowl huddling beneath a thick blanket of savoury dashi omelette. But in all honesty, the taste was underwhelming and I would rather invest in Anago Donburi from Kaisuian Tokyo
Signature Kinshidon
The Kaneyo set (pic above) is a special lunch time deal that is priced at ¥1200, only until 2pm. The price sounded very attractive but the portion of unagi was also reduced significantly. Hence, the usual Unagi Don (¥2100 see top pic) might be slightly more value for money. 
Hamamatsudo (4600 yen)
Main Unagi from Hamamatsudo
Marinated Unagi from the Hamamatsudo (4600 yen)
In fact, the more elaborated sets Hamamatsudo (¥4600) and Unagi teishoku (¥3400) offered the most generous quantity of unagi and came with a variety of other side dishes including grilled unagi liver, sashimi and omelette. 
Unagi Teishoku
Skip this Umaki (¥900), unagi wrapped in omelette, because the eggs were too soggy and the flavour did not resonate well. Was it really so unpalatable? Actually, the food was still edible but maybe my senses got temporarily dysfunctional due to the tobacco. 
All in went in my mind was to finish the meal and get out of this place. 
 
京極かねよ Kyo-Goku Kaneyo 
Kyoto-shi Nakagyo-ku Rokkaku-dori Shinkyogoku 
Higashi-iru 456 Matsugaechō
京都府 京都市中京区 六角通新京極
東入松ヶ枝町456
Daily 11.30am-9pm (Lunch to 2pm)
Tel: 075-221-0669
Reservations for 5-40 pax.

Thursday 26 March 2015

Chir Chir Fusion Chicken Factory : Chicken, Cream and Cheese

Amidst the competitive Korean fried chicken scene in Singapore, FRESH chicken is no longer the key to success. 
Bring on the CHEESE, WHIPPED CREAM and the secret weapon--SWEET POTATO.

I wonder if it is due to Singaporeans love for all things creamy and cheese because there are several items of the menu that contains either cheese or cream. One good example is the Nest Snow ($32.90), a bizarre yet wonderfully tasty mountain of Cajun chicken tenders served in a bubbling hot plate of Parmesan, mozzarella and cheddar. To top it all off, a swirl of whipped cream and sprinkles of cheese shavings. 
But Chir Chir (pronounced chee-ru chee-ru) does not stop at that. It had secretly ambushed a lump of mash SWEET POTATO beneath the chickens. There was no way one could escape from the intense cheesy-ness of this dish, but the presence of something sweet pulled your senses back into shape. If this was spiced with Chilli flakes, I think I'll be weeping at its culinary blasphemy.


Signature Crispy Fried Chicken $26.90 (Served with salsa and honey mustard sauce)

Crispy, Garlicky and Spicy. These are the three basic types of chicken that you can and should try at Chir Chir Fusion Chicken Factory, an authentic South Korean franchise that deep-fry the chicken wings, whole chicken or chicken tenders only UPON ORDER. 

I can't complain about the freshness of the meat since it uses FRESH chicken and not FROZEN ones. Marinated with in-house seasoning for 6 hours, these are the type of chicken that you can eat a dozen in a sitting--perfectly crunchy, tasty and intoxicating. In fact, the original is my favourite amongst all dishes. 
Spicy Wings! with Sweet Potato and Fried Toppoki
Garlicky Wings! with Sweet Potato and Fried Toppoki
Bite into the Spicy Wings ($28.90) and your tongue starts to sizzle a little before the sugar sweeps in and goes, "Mmmmm....sweet!" But the spice levels can still really pack "a real punch" for non-spicy eaters so their Garlicky Wings ($28.90) might be generally the safer choice as they delivered the results easily with a simple yet delicious soy sauce glaze. Yet what surprised me the most was the addition of roasted sweet potatoes and fried Toppoki that lent some balance to the textures and flavors. 
Garlic Roasted Chicken served with Salt Baked Egg, Salsa, Baked Potato ($32.90) 
All the portions are incredibly filling and thus highly ideal for sharing. This is no exception for their Garlic Roasted Chicken--One WHOLE CHICKEN that is marinated for 12 hours before being oven-roasted to succulent perfection. 

I loved the slightly charred black bits, which imbued a sexy smokiness not found in the fried chicken wings. But my wild guess is that I would love the Spicy BBQ Roasted more as the garlic sauce is rather gloopy and sweet. Plus I am biased towards anything spicy. 
The chicken is not their only selling point. The salads, or more precisely, fruit salads, are so sweet that they could pass off as desserts. The Honey Grape Salad ($18.90) is a unique combination of walnuts, pine nuts, almonds and fluffy dollops of home-made ricotta and whipped cream. When you tossed everything together and scooped some onto the crispy baked Tortilla that is laced with honey and minced garlic, all the different flavors and textures began to mingle in a mouthful delight. 
The secret to the deliciousness of this Mango Salad ($11.90) is because there is more than just the juicy sweet mango. There is something crunchy, something leafy and something tangy from the yoghurt dressing that makes this a vibrant plate full of perky flavors that would rejuvenate any jaded taste buds. 
What cannot be missed with fried chicken is a jar of solid good draught beer. Topped with lightly sweetened whipped cream, the Chir Cream Beer ($13.90 for 350ml / $18.90 for 650ml) is meant to inspire a re-enactment of a loving Korean drama scene in which the male partner helps to clean up the "cream" moustache on the girls' upper lips. 

Other signature tipples include the Tok! Tok! ($14.90non-alcoholic/$18.90 alcoholic per jug), a range of sweet cocktails that can be infused with soju for a boozy kick. I prefer the Passion Yellow  to the Blue Marine as the former is less sugary with a bright sour taste.
Fear not about getting your hand phones dirty while you juggle between snapping photos and eating your chicken because Chir Chir has thoughtfully provided a special tongs that helps you shred the meat off the bones. But yes, you can still enjoy the wings with your fingers like me if you are struggling with the tools. Why not? It's still the best way to enjoy the finger-licking good chicken! 

2nd outlet at Bedok Point is now open! Catch the chicken before it runs away!

Chir Chir Fusion Chicken Factory
313 Orchard Road #B3-04/05/06
Singapore 238895
Tel: 6509 8364
Sunday to Thursday 10am-10pm
Friday to Saturday 10am-11pm
Facebook Page here

Tuesday 24 March 2015

Yudofu Okutan ゆどうふ奥丹清水: The Story of a ¥250 Tofu Manju 

The sight of this old lady selling tofu manju stopped me in my foot steps. I remembered that she was also selling tofu manju at this stall a few years ago but I forgot why I did not buy it. Nonetheless, I decided to buy it this time round after standing at a corner and observing the constant stream of customers at the stall. 

Rather than a "vegetable filled steamed bun" as written on the board, this manju is more like okara shaped like a bun. A natural soy fragrance greeted us as we pry open the bun, only to see that there was none of the typical shredded vegetables but full of okara, a kind of soy bean dish that you can only find in Japan. It is a common obanzai (home cooked dish) that is made with mashed tofu, vegetables, mirin and sake. Soft and fluffy with a subtle sweetness, this savoury manju is so delicious that I would never forget the taste. 
But the experience goes beyond the rustic bun. Each order comes with a cup of hot black bean tea but when it was my turn, the thermoflask ran out of tea. So the old granny turned her severely hunched back and walk to the back to fetch another thermo flask. I wanted to tell her that it is alright to do without tea but she went out of sight before I could open my mouth. About three minutes later, she gradually made her way back to the storefront, trudging slowly as she lugged the heavy thermoflask that added pressure on her frail body. 
Instead of one cup of tea, she dished me a tray with two cups of hot fragrant tea. Perhaps it was because she felt bad to keep customers waiting. Or perhaps she noticed my father standing at the side together with me. In any case, this was a nice simple touch that made a difference to my day. 
I wanted to have a chat with her but I couldn't as she was busy attending to other customers. But in my heart, I felt very happy for her. She might be in her 80s or 90s already but still continue to work hard and serve any customers (be it local or tourists) with sincerity and passion. The tofu manju is mostly likely made from the kitchen of Okutan, a renowned tofu zen cuisine establishment in Kyoto, but I'm sure it would have tasted different if I were to have it inside the restaurant. 

I hope the next time I return, I can still taste the buns that are served by this old lady.

Tofu Manju Shop (Right next to Yudofu Okutan ゆどうふ 奥丹清水)
3-340 Kiyomizu, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto

Saturday 21 March 2015

The Rabbit Stash : Secret Fine-Dining Place of a Genius Chef

It's mischievous. It's quirky. It's gentle. It's unpredictable.
Just like an unrestrained rabbit, that took a leap of faith and jump out from its hutch to see the world. 
I experienced a mental block again after an unforgettable evening of gastronomic feast whipped up by Chef Matthew at his new hideout called the Rabbit Stash, a fine-dining restaurant bar situated right at the rooftop of Wangz hotel. The first thing that struck me at first was the rabbit candies that many of us used to eat during our childhood years. But what impressed me even more was the originality of his cuisine--a marriage of French techniques and Asian-Singaporean flavours, infused with his passion for food and the aesthetics. 
SNACKS || Potato Chips on Wooden Truck carved by Chef Matthew, Yam Milk Jam, Lime Mayonnaise, Baby Potatoes with Blueberry, Lotus Chips
With several respectable accolades under his belt, it is humbling to learn that Chef Matthew only switched to a culinary career after his university training in building construction. This Sunrise Global Chef Academy graduate might not have any training experience at Michelin-starred restaurant or with any celebrity chefs local or abroad. But it is his diverse travel and life experiences that make his menu both flavorfully and visually unique. 
OCEAN || Smoked Trout with Trout Caviar, Banana mash Fried Prawn, Hokkaido Scallops on Anchovies Sauce, Sea Lettuce, Herring Caviar, Squid Ink Sponge (made from scratch) 

The menu here is guided by the 7 letters of "ENSOPHI”: Exotic, Nostalgia, Soil, Ocean, Pristine, Heritage, Impression--a philosophy originally developed by Chef Matthew when he started Rabbit Stash in an old shop house unit back in 2011. Guests can choose 2 or 3-course lunch starting from $36++ or the 4-/ 5- and 7-course dinner from $90++.

To experience the power of ENSOPHI, go for the 7-course dinner menu that allows you to appreciate the wonders of the nature blessed upon us. After warming up our palates with warm and non-creamy mushroom consommé, we began with the first course named SOIL (see top pic), a stark resemblance of a beautiful garden with asparagus pudding, basil sorbet, beetroot meringue and olive crumbles. 
PRISTINE || First Born Egg, Crispy Brown Rice, Langostine (SO Sweet and Fresh), Cabbage Dashi
This is followed by unusual concoctions such as the first born hen egg with cabbage dashi and the sweetest crustacean I have ever tasted; a weird but robustly flavoured squid ink sponge and fried prawn on banana mash that Goreng pisang in OCEAN. Inspired from his diving experiences in the blue waters of Australia, this is one of the highlights that night.
IMPRESSION || Beetroot potato mash, Granny Smith Apple Sauce,  Watermelon with vodka,Compressed then braised Berkshire Pork, Pork lard 
HERITAGE || Shoyu sauce infused with Red Dates and Port Wine, Barley porridge with Capsicum and Pumpkin, 48-hours Braised Beef
Every dish looks as if they should sit in an art gallery--immaculately presented with vibrant splashes of fruit sauces and colorful vegetables. Granny Smith Apple Sauce and Beetroot Puree to go with Berkshire Pork? Or how about a umami-bursting shoyu sauce that is blended with red dates and port wine to go with the 48-hours braised beef jowls? Most importantly, the sweet influence is so evident in every course. This comes as a pleasant surprise to experience the delicate and savory flavors of the mains.
NOSTALGIC || Lobster Bisque, Purple Crab, Handmade Noodles , Black Roe
EXOTIQUE || Mango Fromage Blanc, Green Curry Gelato, Snow Wine Pear, Rose Jelly 
And last but not least, the EXOTIQUE dessert. The most exotic element of this dish? The Green Curry Gelato. Yes, the pungent green curry on top of the Mango Fromage Blanc spiked generously with rum-soaked raisins qualified this as a true adult dessert that would chase away all kids so that one can indulge this at peace. How about some chocolate tree twigs or durian lava truffles as the after-meal nibbles? 
Every course comes with snacks, amuse Bouche and petit fours hence if you do some simple calculation, you are enjoying more than just the multi-course meal. But Chef Matthew does not simply let things rest on his cuisine. From the food (including the al dente Chinese style noodles and the awesome cheese focaccia bread) to the decor and the wines, EVERYTHING is done by Chef Matthew himself. He carves even the wooden trunk for the appetizer. The top-notch service and ambience here also deserved to be mention. 

As Lewis Carroll once said, "I almost wish I hadn't gone down that rabbit hole--and yet--and yet--it's rather curious, you know, this sort of life!" I almost wish I hadn't gone to the Rabbit Stash--now that I've gone, it's no turning back!

The Rabbit Stash @ WANGZ Hotel
231 Outram Road, Level R, Singapore 169040
Lunch: Tues-Fri- 12noon to 2pm
Dinner: Mon-Sat - 6.30pm to 10.30pm
Rooftop Bar Mon-Sat- 3pm to 12midnight
Closed on Sundays
Tel +65-9858 8607 / +65-6595 1380