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Saturday 30 November 2013

Ore no French Italian 俺のフレンチ・イタリアン

It was a wonderful meal and we did not have to stand eating. 
Cheap French and Italian gourmet food in Tokyo is no longer a dream with the establishment of a series of "Ore no XXX. " Though the word "Ore" is a casual form of "my", the food here is seriously taken care of by chefs headhunted from Michelin-star restaurants. And yet the prices are jaw-dropping cheap for the premium ingredients. 
 トマトのムース 雲丹とキャビアのジュレ寄せ 1480円Take for instance, the Uni Jelly on Tomato Mousse with Caviar. Words can't describe how heavenly this dish was as the strong-tasting uni and mildly sweet tomato mouse disintegrated in our mouths.  I was shocked by the amount of uni in just one single dish alone and if you are a uni fan, you can't afford to miss this dish.
It would be doing the chefs and the uni which sacrificed their lives for human's pleasure a great injustice if we were to dismiss it like any other uni dish such as uni chawanmushi, uni pasta, uni sushi . The best thing, only ¥1480 ($18.70) for such a gigantic portion!!Woohoo~~~
As temperatures plunged like mad that day, we chose a warm appetizer of Black Pork Collagen in Pâté Brick Pastry?? I never knew the existence of Pâté Brick pastry, which has a texture smoother than deep fried wonton skins. 

A pity my camera could not capture steam that was escaping as we sliced open the meat balls. The collagen were not artificial extracted lumps but instead parts of pigs that contain collagen, so we stumbled upon slices of pig ears and pig trotters.

黒豚のコラーゲン パートブリック包み焼き 
Together with the brown Basalmic vinegar sauce, the tangy green vegetables and red pomegrate seeds cuts downs the greasiness of the pork. Again, these two big meteoroids cost only ¥580 ($7.30)
 
Next up is another Chef's Specialty main course - JUMBO Mushroom Pie!! ジャンボマッシュルームのびっくりパイ包み焼き. As the Japanese name implies, the size is meant to surprise the guests (びっくり). This came later because it took 20min to bake.
 
The brown sauce was fabulous, and the layer of white cheese on top of the juicy mushrooms and meat pattie remained gooey right till the end. Price tag for this golden "egg"? ¥1280 ($16.10)
We were figuring whether to get more food as every table was ordering more food. The two young ladies in front of us ordered a regular sized pizza (only ¥980), risotto, lamb racks, uni mousse, foie gras etc...and another couple ordered at least 7 dishes. The entire hall of people were not only enjoying the live music performance but ordering so much food for themselves. This is understandable as there is really no other places where one pay peanuts for such high quality cuisine. 
 
So we had another main dish that was the star of the restaurant (in limited quantities) フランス産ドーバーソールのポーピエット 俺のキャビア乗せ. I don't know how to translate this but it is a FISH wrapped in French Sole Fish in Uni Sauce and Caviar. The sauce was so concentrated, which made me concluded that the amount of uni I had that single evening was the amount I have altogether in the last 10 years! Really, I'm not exaggerating. 
The core was filled with fish cake paste, uni paste and fresh uni. It was very tasty but I must admit that my taste buds were quite overwhelmed by the uni and perhaps we should have picked a non-uni dish.
 
Ok, finally to the desserts, which we had interest in ordering one--俺の初恋物語 ¥480 because it was an award winning creation by one of the chefs.  The grapefruit mousse and honey cream reminded me of the Luminere from Mont St.Clair but this had an additional thick crunchy base. 

Unfortunately, the small portion did not make a lasting impression. Instead, our eyes was attracted to a huge round dish of creme brûlée with ice cream which made us deeply regret of our own dessert choice. 
Before you get too excited about wanting to visit this place, seats are hard to get as the Japanese are even more fervor when it comes to good deals. I could not even get through the phone line to make a reservation and so I went to the place in hope that the queue would not be too long. 

But nope, there was already a queue snaking up and I ended up making a reservation for this dinner a month ahead. (Note that you can't place reservations months ahead of your visit but only at the start of the previous month)
How can this restaurant earn money if the chefs splurge on the expensive ingredients like this? They work on the economies of scale with high turnover rates for tables. Sessions are scheduled 4pm, 6pm, 8pm, 10pm on weekdays ( it opens from 12pm on weekends/PH) and there are no fewer than 100 diners in one seating. Plus, there were hidden charges, each guest had to order one drink and pay ¥300 for the amuse bouche of aged cheese and ¥300 for the music performance (whether you like it or not) 
But considering the quality and the quantity of food, it is no wonder that this place has proved a massive hit. This latest store is already the 20th outlet under Value Concept spearheaded by the CEO Takashi Sakamoto. If you fail to make a reservation, it is recommended to go for later seatings on weekdays. 

Ore no French・Italian 俺のフレンチイタリアン
Minato Ku Kita-Aoyama 3-11-7, Ao Building 1F
(Exit B2 from Omotesando Hills Station)
Mon-Fri 4pm-11.30pm
Sat & Eve of PH 12pm-11.30pm

Sun & PH 12pm-10.30pm
Reservations: 03-6450-5911 (10am-3pm)
127 seats (72 standing seats and 55 table seats)
Website http://www.oreno.co.jp/panorama/aoyama/ (very cool website but you might get dizzy)

Related news article here

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Friday 29 November 2013

Seow Choon Hua Restaurant : Traditional Foochow Cuisine

My father said he brought me to eat the fish balls here when I was 5 but honestly I have no memory of this. Seow Choon Hua has been around for more than 70 years and is one of the few places in Singapore that you can try traditional Foochow cuisine.

But now, I'm back at this place, which specializes in handmade Foo Chow fish balls. These are definitely not your typical QQ fish balls that you can bounce or throw like ping pong. 

Made with fish paste coming from four different types of fish, each golf-ball sized fishballs are dense and cottony. Meat filling is flavourful though some might find it a little too salty. Precisely because they are handmade, I had to be forgiving when I picked one with literally no meat at all.

The Spicy Dry Mee Pok $4.50 looks more like wan ton mee style than Bak Chor Mee style Mee Pork. Less chewy and firm, they did not have much spicy kick. 

Even if you are not pregnant or under confinement, you can order this bowl of Red Wine Mee Sua $5.00. Compared to the Hakka version, this one is less sweet. 
The broth did not smell overwhelmingly of the "Ang zao" and was not oily at all, though the flavours did not penetrate into the chicken. I think it would be acceptable even to those who are afraid of the wine.If you like to make this dish at home, they sell bottles of "ang zao" or the red glutinous wine lees (红槽)
Besides Foo Chow fishballs, we had the 福州燕皮 Foochow Yanpi $4.50, which is another traditional dumpling made with pork. Think a fusion of 60% wanton and 40%Siu Mai. The resilient skin was stuffed with filling made with minced pork and water chestnuts. Very meaty and no less delicious than the Foochow fishballs.

Lastly, despite knowing that I should not overestimate our stomach space, I stubbornly ordered another dish-the Abacus balls. It's steamed and so significantly less oily. But flavour wise, it still lacks the punch from shallots, diced mushrooms and sesame oil. 

Teochew Ah Pa and Hakka Ah Ma find that the Foochow fishballs and noodles taste different from that in the past. Perhaps due to a change of cooking hands. Nonetheless, I liked the Foochow fishballs here and hopefully I can still enjoy them when I'm old.



Seow Choon Hua Restaurant
33 Sultan Gate Singapore 198481 (Nearest station: Bugis)
Tel(65) 6298 2720 
10am–10pm (daily)

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Wednesday 27 November 2013

Patissierie Ravi'e Relier パティスリー ラヴィルリエ: Osaka No.1? Japan No.1?

I broke my record queuing time of 1 hour for this patisserie shop that hailed from Osaka.
 
I queue.

 We queue.

Let's all queue

The queue was a big surprise because it is really rare to have people scrambling desperately for the cakes at the weekly rotating patisserie booth at Isetan Shinjuku. I had no clue that this shop is currently ranked No. 1 Sweets Shop on (tabelog), a food review website that is based on the reviews and voting score of the users. This imply that the chef has beaten many local and overseas big names like Sadahoru Aoki and Hidemi Sugino.
 
Chef-owner Hattori Yukihiro (Photo Credit:Isetan Osaka)
Born in 1972. Worked in various restaurants and patisseries in Gifu, Nagoya, Osaka and Tokyo etc. Loves coffee. Opened his shop in 2009.

So how does his cakes fare? Well, honestly, the design of the cakes is quite attractive but the textures are limited because they are mainly constructed with mousse, sponge and a chocolate glaze. Take for example this beautiful green standing tower named Pierre Temptation ピエール・タンタシオン¥525.

Pierre Temptation ピエール・タンタシオン. The pistachio mousse was very sweet and so was the cherry jelly in the center. The groittine cherry fruits were not reeked of alcohol and the base is a sticky pistachio sponge. The most outer chocolate glaze is dotted with pistachio nuts.


Téméraire テメレール¥470
Inside this macaron dacquoise wall is caramel buttercream and apricot orange gelee. The top and bottom layer is a succes (chewy almond meringue). The dacquoise wall is dotted with nuts.

Overall taste is close to a hazelnut coffee mousse cake and flavours are much balanced than the earlier pistachio gateaux. But I wish it was dusted with less icing sugar.

The most disappointing one was this chocolate cake called "Brunette Chocolat" ¥480.
I thought there would be some crunchy layers hidden within this but it was made up of caramel chocolate cream centre, milk chocolate mousse and a chocolate sponge. Though the outer layer is also dotted with almond nuts, the texture is quite uniformly soft. And it was again too sweet as a chocolate cake.


Macarons

On the other hand, the baked goods were more impressive than the cakes. The plain butter sables(3 for¥210) were much fragrant and buttery than the matcha diamants(3 for ¥158). But I also enjoyed the ultra thin sandwich cookie called "Linz" ¥189 that is filled with chocolate spread (available also in framboise flavour).
 
Overall, I did not find any thing particularly outstanding about this shop, except the biscuits. But I could have possibly selected the wrong cakes that day. Nonetheless, the queue was formed perhaps because that was the first time it appeared in Tokyo (so people don't have to travel all the way to Osaka).  

Photo Source: ychocolat
Given that this shop has clinched and is still currently the top rank pastry shop on tabelog with a high average score of 4.2/5 ( it is not easy to achieve this), you might be interested to visit his shop in Osaka when you are travelling there.

Patisserie Ravi'e Relier パティスリー ラヴィルリエ
Osaka City Kamiyama Cho 2-6 ( 6 min walk from Exit 3 Nakazaki Station via Osaka Municipal Subway Tanimachi Line)
〒530-0026 大阪府大阪市北区神山町2-6
大阪市営谷町線中崎町駅3番口 徒歩6分
Hours: 11am-8pm
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Monday 25 November 2013

Grand Hyatt Tokyo Christmas Cakes 2013 : Share the Love

Christmas is always a big festive event in Japan and it is common for department stores, hotels and individual pastry shops to roll out their Christmas goodies way in advance. This year, Grand Hyatt will be offering 10 indulgent cakes to mark the milestone year of the hotel's tenth anniversary. But besides indulging in festive treats, X'mas is also a season of sharing the love to people around you. The Love Tree takes center stage as a charity Christmas Tree adorned with heart-shaped ornaments. 
 
Each ornament costs ¥500 and this is part of the various ongoing promotions that aimed to raise funds for the children of Tohoku through the Kids Earth Fund programme
So what's Kids Earth Fund all about? Founded in 1988, it runs on a very innovative idea of "Kids helping Kids" through the medium of children's art. KIDS EARTH FUND supports children throughout the world who suffer from the results of war, poverty and environmental contamination. A Christmas Charity Cookie (¥600) printed with children's artwork is also available as individual package or in Christmas hamper. At the media preview session, delicious canapés and hot food by the hotel's banquet team were served. The food might not be related to the Christmas theme but the quality is so excellent that they deserved to be mentioned. Scallops on Potato Mash in Black Truffle Sauce topped with Black Truffles 
Uni Custard 
This cherry look-alike is actually a ball of Foie Gras!
Lobster Meat with Cream Cheese
A Pot Pie with black fillings of mushrooms and prawn
One never expect that this crab roll draped in avocado sauce actually contains Green Apples!
Tender Pink Beef with Grated Ginger and Porcini Mushrooms
Salmon Tartare with Black Caviar in a refreshing lemon dressing 
Roast Beef with Cranberries and Roasted Potatoes. A very christmas dish indeed!  
Returning to the Christmas Cakes, they were created by award-winning chef Okazaki Masahi. He clinched the prestigious top award in a 2012 International Pastry Competition "Coupe du Monde de la Patisserie", beating strong contenders from Swiss (2nd place) and France (3rd place) 
One of the new item is this Buche De Noel : Bitter Chocolate Mousse, Orange Cream and Crunchy Hazelnut Base ¥10,000 (Limited to 80 sets) 

Cross Section of Buche De Noel


Highly recommended as it is not too heavy and boasts multiple textures!
Christmas Monte Bianco (Mont Blanc) ¥3800
Made with the premium chestnuts from Kumamoto, the cream has preserved the natural sweetness of flavour of the chestnuts. This stands head and shoulder over many good chestnut tarts in Tokyo. 




Berry Pudding 12cm/¥3500


A Brioche Wall soaked with mixed fruit syrup of red wine, orange juice and raspberries. 


NEW Strawberry Mousseline 12cm/¥3800

Buttercream and Custard Cream Cake Topped with Strawberries and Wrapped with Strawberry Meringue Sticks. 


Cross Section of Strawberry Mousseline


This might be easily confused with Strawberry Shortcake but is actually a classic French Cake "Fraise"


NEW Fruit Tart 12cm/3800cm

The Strawberry Short Cake 
12cm/¥4200, 15cm/¥6000, one of the all-time popular cakes at Grand Hyatt. 

Chocolate Chantily Cake 12cm/¥4200, 15cm/¥6000

For the cheese lovers, there is the Ricotta Cheese Tart topped with Petite Cream Puffs 12cm/¥3800

And a personal favorite of mine besides the Buche De Noel is this Caramel Dome 12cm/¥3800. Sable Base, Caramel Mousse, Almond Sponge, Cream Beurre, Rum-soaked Raisin.
But if I were to pick one that surprised me, it would be the mango trifles. The sturdy ring around the mangoes is not chocolate but biscuit! Inside the crunchy wall is layers of sponge and chantily cream.

The mango trifles are part of the Florentina Natale Assort ¥6000, which includes half-sized strawberry shortcake and a chocolate ganache cake.  
Besides the regular cakes, there are also various assorted Christmas Hampers and traditional Christmas Bread such as Panettone, Stollen and Baumkuchen on sale at Florentina Pastry Boutique.  

If you are staying in Tokyo this holiday, why not pick a cake and share them with your loved ones?  
Fiorentina Pastry Boutique (1F) 
フィオレンティーナ ペストリーブティック 
03-4333-8713 
9am-10pm 
Reservation 1 Nov-8 Dec 
Pick Up Dates 16-25 Dec 
Bread on sale from 1 Nov-25 Dec
For more info: http://restaurants.tokyo.grand.hyatt.com/